Day 1: 88 Temples: Donari (1-7)

I had a pretty good sleep for first night in country.  I woke with my alarm at 5:30 and before the bus at 7:00 we went to the Lawson next door for some surprisingly good chicken nuggets and coffee for breakfast.

At the bus the driver noted to us our assigned seats even though the bus was only 25% occupied.  We sat in them.  It was a nice hour and 40 minute ride.  We crossed the bridge into Shikoku and saw the famous whirlpools in the straight below. 

At the Naruto Nishi freeway rest area we got out and had a short 1km walk to the first temple.  Our route from KIX was pretty good.  We took the bus to Sannomiya Station in Kobe (¥2000) where we stayed the night, got sorted and had dinner - all within about 50 meters of the two bus stops.  In the morning we got an early bus (¥3500) and were fumbling around the first temple by 9:30.  The logistics worked out well.

At the first temple we did some of the rituals.  Our temple procedure consists of the ceremonial  washing, standing solemnly at the main temple and depositing one of our named white slips in the metal bin.  There are also a few coins that get tossed into the donation bin.  We then go to the office and get our book signed and stamped.

At Temple 1 we purchased our Henro gear at the office.  I got a sleeveless tunic, staff, stamp book and a thick wad of white slips you write your name on to give to people and deposit at temples.  Mike did not get the staff and we passed on the sedge hat after trying one on and realizing they were uncomfortable and awkward.  Henro we passed that had purchased one were carrying it.

My staff is going to need some reworking.  I got up sold to a stronger piece of wood but it has a purple padded handle and a bell.  The bell fell off before the second temple - this was a good thing! - and there is nothing holding the padded handle on and the staff kept slipping out and falling on the ground.  This made me do one of the one thing that makes old guys grunt-moan more than anything: bend over and pick something up.

At Temple 2, very close to 1, we were feeling like pros and zipped through the process.  Temple 3 was several kilometers further and it was there we realized we had forgotten to get our books signed and stamped at 2.  The girl signing at 3 pointed it out and was very sympathetic.  Going back for it would have been out of the question as it would have added 6km to the day.  We might try and pick that stamp up at the end ... by taxi.

So far hydration has not been an issue as there is always a vending machine with cold (and sometimes) hot) drinks.  I would be surprised if today there any places where the distance between vending machines was greater than 2km along the route.  We only passed one vending machine with beer and sake.  My drink of choice has been cold, plain unsweetened tea.

Mike pointed out the common prostitute spider along the way.  We saw several.  They are big with webs that are messy to walk through.

4 was at the top of a bit of a climb and 5 was at the bottom.  This up and down was the most off road, quiet section of the day.  After 5, a car passed us, stopped and asked for me by name.  We were a little surprised. It was our host for tonight's stay.  We asked him if there was any food ahead as it was about 2pm and we were getting a bit hungry.  He said there was nothing on the quieter official route but there was a 7-11 on the parallel busy main road.  Main road it was and we dined in the 7-11 parking lot.

One thing we are noticing is it is often hard to find places to throw stuff away.  The trash at 7-11 is hidden inside the store and we usually can only throw away the drink containers at the next vending machine.  There are very few public trash cans.

Temple 6 was probably the plainest temple of the day.  7 wasn't much fancier,  but we just wanted to get to our guesthouse.  A Henro lady at 7 was waiting for a pickup and started talking at me in a very friendly way but I had no idea what she was saying and had to wait for Mike to catch up from a photo stop.  He conversed with her fairly well.  She was a little surprised that he was responding so well.  Several others have been surprised at his proficiency.  In a few weeks he should be really good.

At Okuda-ya Guesthouse (¥5500/person) we met several other non-Japanese pilgrims.  A guy from Atlanta and later another from New York.  Shortly after getting in, our host drove us and another guest to the local Onsen.  He gave us a coupon as part of the room which got us a free bath.  ¥100 for a towel rental and we were soon soaking naked with 25 other old men.

Afterwards, in fresh, clean clothes, we had an ok meal at the Onsen restaurant.  Walking back to the guesthouse it was really dark.  There were few street lights and I had to pull out my phone to light the way back.

We got a load of laundry going in the machine for ¥100.  All dried now and time for bed.