Day 18: 88 Temples (none) - Tosashimizu

I was tired this morning and it was hard to get on the road.  I futzed around until 8 after having breakfast at the hotel.  First stop was Lawson for fluids and lunch.  No food yesterday was not good.  I got rice balls wrapped in seaweed with some stuff inside.  It turned out I didn't need to lug fluids around all day as there were regularly spaced vending machines.  



I thought there was going to be a hard climb today but my concern was unfounded.  The big climb turned out to be 3 to 5% alongside of a road on a very smooth segregated sidewalk.  It did, however, include a one mile tunnel.  That's a long time to be in a tunnel.  Fortunately, the air in there wasn't too bad.


After that it was gradual downhill to the sea.  Most of the way any of the busy roads had segregated sidewalks.


I passed this abandoned coffee shop and thought back to earlier trips.  In the 70's and 80's that style of coffee place was everywhere.  You could get little sandwiches on the whitest bread or a plate of spaghetti.   Almost all are closed now and the open ones are always empty.  Mike says his son was disappointed they hadn't been to any Snacks. Same idea but alcohol instead of coffee.


When I reached the sea I was expecting sweeping sea views but there was always stuff in the way.  Occasionally, things would open up and you could see what a stunning coast line Shikoku has.

M

I had picked a target along the coast to catch the bus which only came every 2 hours.  I arrived with enough time to relax a bit and in the 20 minutes I stood there 3 Henro walked by.  I guessed we were spaced far enough apart we didn't see each other but if you were driving you would see a Henro every few minutes.


I was too early for check in and had to wander around for over an hour.


The hotel I had on my list is a very traditional Ryokan.  Very nice when I went there but the guy said I was in the business hotel across the street and checkin was at 4.  How did he know? A few minutes before 4 he checked me in at the other place.  


The hotel that Natsuko called was the ryokan and they were full.  They booked me at the business hotel which is the same operation so there was the confusion.


This hotel is better than any of the ones I had picked out for Natsuko to call.  I was booked for 2 nights but I need a day off so I'm staying 3 nights.  The next two days are also supposed to have worsening weather. Tomorrow is temple with no pack and the next day is lounge around day.  Unfortunately I have to change rooms for third night.


Tonight I had dinner at a funky little spot where I was the sole customer.  The ramen was good and I didn't mind the offal.


Tomorrow breakfast comes to the room at 7, bus leaves at 8:08 and that gives me a 25km day and Temple 38.


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